However Long the Night Read online

  Dedication

  For Noelle

  Contents

  Dedication

  Author’s Note

  Book One

  1 Dogu gi (The Decision)

  2 Xabaar bu Mag bi (Breaking the Silence)

  3 Tawféex (Coming into Her Own)

  4 Wàcc-bees bi (The Newcomer)

  5 Teraanga ji (Welcome)

  6 Tostan

  7 Maasawu (Empathy)

  8 Démb ak Tey (Yesterday and Today)

  9 Njàng mu Xoot (Deep Learning)

  10 Njàngale mi (Teaching)

  11 Jabar ak Ndey (Wife and Mother)

  12 Lu Guddi gi Yàgg-Yàgg (However Long the Night)

  13 San-Sani Doom Aadama (Human Rights)

  14 Ngir Sunuy Doom yu Jigéen (For Our Daughters)

  15 Yeewu-Yeete (Showing the Way)

  Book Two

  16 Yewwiku (Deliverance)

  17 Yoonu Diisoo (Choosing Dialogue)

  18 Tànki Jàmm (Feet of Peace)

  19 Biral gi (The Public Declaration)

  20 Jëf, Gëstu (From Practice to Theory)

  21 Alhamdulilaa (Thanks Be to God)

  22 Njàmbaar (Courage)

  23 Fajar gi (Dawn of a New Day)

  24 Bàyyil Dex gi Daw (Let the River Flow)

  25 Pas-pas (Perseverance)

  26 Jant bi Dina Fenk (The Sun Will Rise)

  Epilogue

  Acknowledgments

  Photographic Insert

  About the Author

  Also by Aimee Molloy

  Credits

  Copyright

  About the Publisher

  AUTHOR’S NOTE

  I first met Molly Melching in Philadelphia in the summer of 2011. She was in town for a week to attend a conference at the University of Pennsylvania, and we’d planned to have dinner to discuss her work with Tostan, the NGO she’d started in Senegal, West Africa, where she’d been living since 1974. By this time, Molly’s work had received considerable recognition. Forbes magazine had recently named her one of the most powerful women in the field of women’s rights, and Newsweek had included her as one of the “150 Women Who Shake the World.” A year earlier, in 2010, she was presented with one of the prestigious Skoll Awards for Social Entrepreneurship, and in 2007 Tostan was awarded the Conrad N. Hilton Humanitarian Prize—the largest humanitarian award in the world—for empowering African communities and also in recognition for doing what no other organization before it has done: help bring about the widespread abandonment of the deeply entrenched and harmful tradition of female genital cutting (FGC).

  The issue of female genital cutting is not one that many people are necessarily eager to discuss. In Western cultures, the practice is most commonly referred to as “female genital mutilation” and is generally viewed as a heinous act of cruelty born from gender inequality that girls are forced to endure. But the issue is far more complex than this, and to consider it from the point of view of the millions of women in twenty-eight nations where the custom is practiced is to understand a far different reality. The truth is, women who adhere to the tradition do not view it as an act of cruelty, but rather as a necessary act of love. Cutting one’s daughter is critical to her future, ensuring that she will be a respected member of her community and preparing her to find a good husband in cultures where marriage is essential for a girl’s economic security and social acceptance. To not cut one’s daughter would be unthinkable—setting her up for a lifetime of rejection and social isolation.

  With a background in writing about issues surrounding human rights violations and the disadvantages of women in developing nations, I was eager to learn about Tostan’s work. But I admit that it was not the issue of FGC that drew me to this story. It was Molly herself. How had a woman like her—a sixty-two-year-old single mother from Illinois—managed to devise a strategy to possibly bring an end to a highly entrenched and revered custom that has existed for nearly two thousand years?

  It doesn’t take long after meeting Molly to understand that not only is she a gifted intellectual, but she is also extremely likable and funny. Our first dinner, meant to last an hour or two, easily stretched to five. Though she is, at times, somewhat reluctant to speak about herself—her ordinary beginnings in Illinois, her personal life—she comes alive when she speaks about her work. We’d barely finished eating before molly had pushed aside our dishes to draw for me a rough map of Senegal and guide me through Excel spreadsheets and PowerPoint presentations outlining the extraordinary movement under way in Senegal.

  It began in 1997 when a group of thirty-five women from one small village became the first to stand up and publicly declare an end to the practice of FGC in their community. Since then, nearly five thousand additional communities have followed suit. In each case, village representatives—including women, men, and adolescents—have bravely stood up before their extended families, government representatives, and journalists from around the world to announce they would no longer cut their girls.

  “We are now on the verge of something unique and historic—total abandonment of FGC in Senegal,” Molly said to me at this first meeting. “I truly believe we are at a point where, in a few years, Senegal may be able to say that it is a country free from this practice that is violating the human rights of women and girls, causing so much suffering and, at times, even death.”

  From small, local organizations to large international NGOs, there have been considerable efforts to bring about an end to the practice. While many have had success in increasing international awareness around the issue, none have come close to having Tostan’s success at the grassroots level. Currently, Tostan’s approach to FGC abandonment—implementing a human-rights-based education program taught in national languages, disseminating information, and holding public declarations to announce an end to the practice—has been integrated into the strategies of numerous organizations, including ten UN agencies and several African governments. The World Health Organization, UNICEF, UNESCO, USAID, and others have recognized Tostan for its ability to bring about social change and mobilize communities to improve their own lives, and in Senegal the government has officially adopted a national action plan that calls for using the human rights approach pioneered by Tostan to totally end FGC by 2015.

  How has this relatively small organization achieved such results?

  “I have learned many lessons during the decades I’ve been doing this work,” Molly says, “but none as important as this: if you want to help empower people to positively transform their communities and their lives, human rights education is key. For many years, our education program did not include discussions on basic human rights. We were successful, but it was only after introducing human rights learning that an amazing thing happened. I can’t explain it. It felt like magic.”

  Despite the recognition she has personally received for Tostan’s accomplishments, Molly is loath to take the credit, and as our dinner came to an end and we prepared to say good-bye, she grew serious. “It’s really the women themselves who should be telling you this story. The only way to truly understand what is happening, to experience the magic, you have to come to Senegal.”

  THREE MONTHS LATER, I landed at the airport in Dakar, Senegal’s capital city, for the first of several trips I would take over the course of the next year. Molly had invited me to attend a weeklong staff retreat at a training center just outside the city of Thiès, about an hour east of Dakar. The seminar was designed, in part, to mark the twentieth anniversary of Tostan—to celebrate the fact that the organization, which had its roots in one small village in 1982 with a team of three, had expanded to thousands of Senegalese villages and nine additional African nations and now employed more than thirteen hundred
people.

  It is not easy to pull Molly’s attention away from her work—she has a singular focus that is truly extraordinary—but she always seems willing to carve out time to show people around. It is clear that Molly wants visitors to Senegal to see what she sees there, to understand and appreciate the country beyond the poverty, the crumbling infrastructure, the trash-lined streets, and for a few hours each day, Molly and I spend time exploring the villages surrounding Thiès. She takes me to the village of Saam Njaay, population three hundred, where she lived for three years in a ten-by-ten-foot hut, beginning in 1982. When she arrived, there was no clean running water, and even today—nearly thirty years later—there is still no electricity. Like the other women of the village, Molly helped with the cooking, used a latrine she dug behind her hut, and had to walk a kilometer to get water from the closest well. As we walk through the village, she points out the landmarks: the courtyard where she first developed and implemented the classes that would become the Tostan Community Empowerment Program; the health center she helped the villagers build; the field where, in the cooler air of late afternoon, she led the children and women in the Jane Fonda Workout, played from a portable audio cassette player she carried.

  Taking in the remoteness of this village, the utter lack of convenience, I am captivated by the question of what would motivate a young American woman (she was thirty-two at the time) to choose to settle somewhere so isolated and unfamiliar. At one point, I voice the thought that has occurred to me several times that day: “I can’t believe you did this.” Molly just smiles, and as she is greeted by everyone in the village—most people call her Sukkéyna Njaay, the Senegalese name she was given when she first arrived in Senegal in 1974—I see the joy she experiences here, the love she feels for the villagers and they for her, and I begin to sense what she is thinking.

  Why would you not do this?

  The next day she takes me on a tour of Thiès, and it is during these initial hours spent with her that I first get a sense of what I will later come to believe defines her and her work more than anything else: she is fearless. Driving through the pitch-black streets, she makes a wrong turn and we get lost among the unmarked, muddy back alleys, literally having to outmaneuver a herd of swine in the road, but she doesn’t bat an eye. The next day, we get pulled over by a stern-looking police officer as part of a routine stop. Molly slows the car, rolls down the window, and charmingly jokes with the man in perfect Wolof, the indigenous language spoken by a majority of Senegal’s twelve million residents. I hear the word “Tostan,” and within minutes, after a quick handshake from the officer, we are back on our way.

  As she drives, she tells me stories of her life and her work—how she once walked barefoot several miles along scorpion-and snake-infested roads on a rainy night after her car broke down; about her first trip in 2005 to Somalia, a war-torn nation where people have been killed for being white; how she has managed on more than one occasion to bring her program to communities so desperate to block her efforts to empower local women they have threatened her with death. She speaks as if these experiences were normal and ordinary, often forgetting what she is saying after pausing to point out the fields of peanut and millet crops or the kad trees from South Africa, which, unlike every other tree in Senegal, gain their leaves in the dry season and lose them in the rainy months. “Oh, look,” she says. “There’s one of those beautiful turquoise birds! I’ve forgotten what they’re called in Wolof.” Often, she fails to notice the speed bumps—mounds of packed dirt obviously laid by hand by industrious and worried local parents. As we bounce roughly over them, nearly hitting our heads on the ceiling, Molly laughs. “Whoops,” she says. “Didn’t see that one.”

  At night, we return to the house Molly has built over the course of several years, as is the Senegalese way, in a beach community on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean about two hours from Dakar. It is large and comfortable. The walls are adorned with colorful paintings from local artists and lined with shelves heavy with books, everything from popular fiction to scholarly texts on management and budget writing. From Molly’s favorite spot on the verandah, overlooking the ocean, the sound of the waves mixes with the distant call to prayer. In the morning, over a breakfast of coffee and fried eggs, she points out the song of the weaver birds, which have loaded the trees in the front yard with roofed nests made of palm fronds. It is peaceful here, and private—perhaps the one indulgence Molly allows herself, perhaps the last vestige of her Americanism. She tries to come here every weekend, often hosting guests who are visiting Senegal to learn more about Tostan, or staff members she has invited to come and work. Here, she speaks Wolof unless the phone rings or her Skype chimes, prompting her to switch effortlessly to English or French, depending on the caller. She loves language. She is known among friends for her constant puns, or “Melchings,” as they are called. (One morning, we awake to find the electricity has gone out, meaning no coffee for breakfast. “No coffee? Why, that’s grounds to be upset,” she says with a giggle.) She never seems to tire. Even when she claims she is going to lie down for an hour, you get a sense she spends that time on her computer, replying to e-mails or Skyping someone in Mali. When I comment on the number of hours she seems to work, she shakes her head.

  “I don’t always work,” she says. “Sometimes I play a mean game of Boggle”

  DURING THE FINAL DAYS of this visit, Molly brings me to the village of Malicounda Bambara. It is simple and inviting, situated off a main road that leads in one direction to Dakar and in the other to the bustling seaside fish markets and tourist hotels of Mbour. We take the back route, along unpaved roads, where the views are vast and breathtaking—hard blue skies hovering above forests of beautiful, ancient baobab trees, their branches thick, wild, and twisted, as if it’s the trees’ roots that reach upward toward the clouds. According to a popular Wolof saying, the baobab was once a beautiful tree, but it became so vain that God grew angry, prompting him to turn it upside down.

  Small well-worn cement homes, organized into compounds where as many as thirty members of a family may live, surround leafy central courtyards where most of the daily activities take place. Along some of the narrow, interior dirt roads filled with drifting goats and chickens, village residents offer bread and vegetables for sale from tables and crude wooden booths. We climb from the car and a crowd of young girls shyly approach, stretching their hands to shake ours, to welcome us to their village.

  A group of women has been expecting us, and we are led to a circle of chairs set under the spreading arms of a great neem tree near the village square. After offering us tea poured from a ceramic pot, the women begin to speak. As I spend time with them that day, and the many days that I will return to be with them over the course of the year, as I hear the stories of their lives, I take in the village. While it is beautiful, it does not at first seem to be particularly extraordinary. And there was certainly a time when people here had very little reason to believe that these thirty-five women—many of whom married as teenagers, never attended school, and were accustomed to remaining in the background—might help spawn one of the most significant human rights movements in modern African history.

  But sixteen years ago, in this circle of women, at this exact spot, all of that was about to change.

  Senegal and the Surrounding Area

  BOOK ONE

  It’s better to find the way out than to stand and scream at the forest.

  —WOLOF PROVERB

  1

  Dogu gi (The Decision)

  Malicounda Bambara

  August 1996

  Kerthio Diawara sat on a stiff plastic chair, pretending to look through the notebook on her lap and trying her best to avoid eye contact with the other students. Usually the atmosphere inside the classroom was lively and animated as the participants discussed the theme of that day’s class session—how the body develops, the phases of pregnancy, the importance of pre-and post-natal consultation. But on this day, the room was filled with an unfami
liar and icy silence as Kerthio and the other thirty-four women listened uneasily to Ndey, the Tostan class facilitator, who spoke from her place in the circle.

  None of them could believe what Ndey was doing: speaking aloud about the custom of cutting a girl’s genitals to prepare her for marriage—so old and revered a custom, it was known among themselves simply as “the tradition.” Kerthio stole a glance around the room at the others and saw that most were keeping their eyes to themselves. Surely they too were nervously trying to make sense of what Ndey was saying, explaining that the tradition could cause a wide range of serious medical problems, such as hemorrhaging, infection, difficulty urinating, stress or shock, and complications during childbirth. While most of the women in the room had known girls or women who had suffered from one or more of these problems, or had suffered them personally, they never would have connected this with the tradition. Rather, everyone believed that problems after the procedure were the work of evil spirits, a punishment for some unknown transgression of the family or cutter. The consequences of talking about the tradition could be quite serious. It could mean mental illness or paralysis. It might even bring death. This is why women never dared to speak about it, and certainly never to anyone who had not been cut.

  “What I’m about to read is a statement from the World Health Organization,” Ndey said. “Female Genital Mutilation is an act of violence toward the young girl that will affect her life as an adult.” She paused. “Would anybody like to share their thoughts about this?”

  The room was silent.

  “We all know that mothers practice this tradition out of love for their daughters, so that they will be respected and accepted members of their society. Why do you think the World Health Organization would make such a statement?”

  Kerthio looked across the room at her mother, Maimouna Traore. A large woman with earlobes stretched long from years of heavy adornment, her age evident in the leathery folds of her face and neck, Maimouna was among the oldest and most respected women in the class. Kerthio could sense the anger in her mother’s face, in the way she clenched her jaw and held her shoulders, and she half-expected her to rise from her chair and march out of the classroom. The room remained silent for several minutes. When it seemed the discussion was going nowhere, Ndey announced that the class was over.